Mirror mounts are obvious. I have done them before. It gave me a very detailed explanation for making it out of PVC with drawings.
🛠 Materials
- 52 mm achromatic doublet lens
(crown + flint, already matched)
- PVC
pipe with inner diameter slightly larger than 52 mm (commonly 2"
schedule 40 works well)
- PVC
coupler or end cap (for rear support)
- Thin
brass or plastic shims/spacers (0.1–0.2 mm
thick)
- Retaining
ring (can be cut from PVC or aluminum stock)
- Black
matte paint (for internal surfaces)
- Small
screws (optional, for collimation adjustments)
⚙️ Step‑by‑Step Build
- Prepare
the PVC tube
- Cut
a section of PVC pipe ~60–70 mm
long.
- Bore
the inner diameter on your lathe to a snug fit for the 52 mm lens.
- Leave
~2 mm clearance so
the lens can drop in without binding.
- Machine
the lens seat
- Face
one end of the tube flat.
- Cut
a shallow internal shoulder (~2 mm
deep) so the front crown lens rests squarely.
- Ensure
the seat is concentric with the tube axis.
- Insert
the crown lens
- Place
the convex crown element facing outward.
- Add
three tiny foil or plastic spacers evenly spaced around the edge to
maintain the air gap.
- Add
the flint lens
- Place
the concave flint element behind the crown, aligned with the spacers.
- Check
that the doublet sits flush and centered.
- Secure
with retaining ring
- Turn
a PVC or aluminum ring on your lathe to thread or press into the tube.
- The
ring should hold the lens gently — not tight enough to pinch.
- If
threading PVC is tricky, you can cut a groove and use a snap‑in ring.
- Blacken
the interior
- Paint
the inside of the cell with matte black to reduce reflections.
- Also
blacken the lens edges if not already done.
- Rear
support / mounting
- Attach
a PVC coupler or end cap to the back of the cell.
- Bore
it to fit your telescope tube.
- Optionally
add three push‑pull screws around the perimeter for collimation.
- Final
assembly
- Test
fit the cell into your telescope tube.
- Adjust
screws (if used) to align the optical axis.
- Verify
that the lens is secure but free to expand slightly with temperature.
📐 Simplified Cross‑Section
Drawing (textual)
Code
Front (sky side)
-----------------
| Retaining Ring |
-----------------
| Crown Lens |
| Spacer Foils |
| Flint Lens |
-----------------
| Rear Support |
-----------------
Telescope Tube
Connection
This diagram shows:
- Retaining
ring: Holds the crown lens from the front
- Crown
lens: Convex side facing outward
- Spacer
foils: Maintain air gap between crown and flint
- Flint
lens: Concave side facing inward
- Rear
support ring: Secures the lens stack from behind
- PVC
tube body: Main housing, lathe-bored for precision
- Telescope
tube interface
Machining Tolerances & Dimensions
🔹 PVC Tube Body
- Inner
diameter (ID): 52.2 mm
± 0.1 mm
- Slight
clearance for the lens stack (52.0 mm
nominal lens diameter)
- Shoulder
depth: 2.0 mm ± 0.1 mm
- For
seating the crown lens
- Tube
length: 60–70 mm
- Allows
space for lens stack + retaining ring
🔹 Crown Lens Seat
- Seat
diameter: 52.0 mm ± 0.05 mm
- Snug
fit without binding
- Flatness:
≤ 0.05 mm deviation
- Ensures
optical alignment
🔹 Spacer Foils
- Thickness:
0.1–0.2 mm
- Use
3 evenly spaced shims
- Material:
Brass, Mylar, or thin plastic
🔹 Flint Lens Fit
- Same
diameter: 52.0 mm ± 0.05 mm
- Should
rest flush against spacers
🔹 Retaining Ring
- Outer
diameter: Match PVC ID (52.2 mm)
- Thickness:
2–3 mm
- Fit
type:
- Press-fit:
OD = 52.3 mm ± 0.05 mm
- Threaded:
Cut internal threads in PVC, external threads on ring
🔹 Rear Support Ring
- Outer
diameter: Match telescope tube ID
- Mounting
method:
- Press-fit
or screw-on
- Optional:
3 push-pull collimation screws (M3 or M4)
🌡 Thermal Expansion
Allowance
- PVC
expands ~0.07 mm per
10 °C per 100 mm
- Leave
~0.2 mm axial
clearance to avoid lens stress
- Avoid
tight radial clamping — use gentle retaining pressure
🎨 Surface Treatment
- Blacken
interior: Use matte black paint or flocking
- Edge
blackening: Paint lens edges to reduce stray light
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