Conservative. Idaho. Software engineer. Historian. Trying to prevent Idiocracy from becoming a documentary.
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Sunday, November 19, 2017
M1911 Full Length Recoil Spring Guide Rod
WIlson Combat sells one for $30. Experience with it? My current M1911 works flawlessly, but comments suggest that it improves tightness of fit (thus accuracy) and smoother functioning.
The major, and possibly only, advantage of this setup is that it can be used to avoid the flying recoil plug. On the full size guns, this makes the process much less aggravating.
Got a friend who launched his Black-T coated plug inside his garage. Gone, never to be seen in 20 years. Can't match the coating.
Local gun store owner lost one eye when he lost control of the plug while working on a 1911.
I was first talked into buying a 1911 by a friend at work who then suggested the long rod as a modification. In truth I have no idea if it helps or hurts the gun's accuracy, the 1911 was never fired by me until after the change. All I can say is it makes it different.
In the end the 1911 I bought was from Springfield armory and its tolerances were so tight to begin with it was almost impossible to disassemble at first. And to me, replacing the rod isn't as important as starting with a good quality gun.
Accuracy of the gun is quite good already. I launched a recoil plug in the garage a week ago, and eventually found it. I am trying to imagine how a pro gunsmith could be that careless.
I had one, finally went back to standard because it made disassembly easier (no need for a bushing wrench). And it didn't seem to offer any benefit in terms of accuracy.
No real accuracy improvement, particularly in what is called "practical accuracy".
As someone with extensive 1911 experience, If I were going somewhere nasty and the 1911 was my only sidearm choice (otherwise I would take a Glock 17/19, more reliable), I would not use a full length rod. It complicates the field-strip evolution and adds nothing important to the weapon system.
I prefer them for normal length guns. In addition to the advantages mentioned, they also increase forward weight and thus decrease muzzle flip (you can get ones made out of tungsten or the like to further improve this), I suppose the spring is less likely to bind, and they just plain look cool ^_^.
I like this bushing wrench that keeps the plug from launching: https://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/handgun-tools/barrel-tools/barrel-bushing-tools/pct-1911-plug-cature-tool-prod54827.aspx?avs%7cManufacturer_1=PRESENT%2bARMS%2bINC
Do most BullsEye shooters who use a M1911 use a full-length guide rod? Are you planning on using yours for B.E. shooting?
I suspect that both answers are 'no', so I wouldn't bother. I have a Kimber 3" M1911 that is a PITA to take down for cleaning because of that guide rod.
Clayton, I'm not clear if he is actually a gunsmith. An owner or co-owner of a gun store in San Jose. Besides the store, I would see him with tables in the local gunshows.
That plug design is perhaps the worst thing about the 1911. There is no way to positively control it. It needs a socket of some sort in the face, so you can stick some kind of tool into it to give you a handle. A Phillips screwdriver or Allen wrench would work nicely. I'm talking a hole with some depth to it, not the head of a screw.
Anyway, eyepro plus a box or bag to restrain the flying part is best.
Jim: I have a similar wrench. Not strictly necessary, but it does help keep the plug from going suborbital. It does not appear that there is any reason for me to get a full length recoil guide rod.
The major, and possibly only, advantage of this setup is that it can be used to avoid the flying recoil plug. On the full size guns, this makes the process much less aggravating.
ReplyDeleteGot a friend who launched his Black-T coated plug inside his garage. Gone, never to be seen in 20 years. Can't match the coating.
Local gun store owner lost one eye when he lost control of the plug while working on a 1911.
I was first talked into buying a 1911 by a friend at work who then suggested the long rod as a modification. In truth I have no idea if it helps or hurts the gun's accuracy, the 1911 was never fired by me until after the change. All I can say is it makes it different.
ReplyDeleteIn the end the 1911 I bought was from Springfield armory and its tolerances were so tight to begin with it was almost impossible to disassemble at first. And to me, replacing the rod isn't as important as starting with a good quality gun.
Accuracy of the gun is quite good already. I launched a recoil plug in the garage a week ago, and eventually found it. I am trying to imagine how a pro gunsmith could be that careless.
ReplyDeleteI had one, finally went back to standard because it made disassembly easier (no need for a bushing wrench). And it didn't seem to offer any benefit in terms of accuracy.
ReplyDeleteNo real accuracy improvement, particularly in what is called "practical accuracy".
ReplyDeleteAs someone with extensive 1911 experience, If I were going somewhere nasty and the 1911 was my only sidearm choice (otherwise I would take a Glock 17/19, more reliable), I would not use a full length rod. It complicates the field-strip evolution and adds nothing important to the weapon system.
I prefer them for normal length guns. In addition to the advantages mentioned, they also increase forward weight and thus decrease muzzle flip (you can get ones made out of tungsten or the like to further improve this), I suppose the spring is less likely to bind, and they just plain look cool ^_^.
ReplyDeleteI like this bushing wrench that keeps the plug from launching: https://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/handgun-tools/barrel-tools/barrel-bushing-tools/pct-1911-plug-cature-tool-prod54827.aspx?avs%7cManufacturer_1=PRESENT%2bARMS%2bINC
ReplyDeleteDo most BullsEye shooters who use a M1911 use a full-length guide rod? Are you planning on using yours for B.E. shooting?
ReplyDeleteI suspect that both answers are 'no', so I wouldn't bother. I have a Kimber 3" M1911 that is a PITA to take down for cleaning because of that guide rod.
No, thank you.
Clayton, I'm not clear if he is actually a gunsmith. An owner or co-owner of a gun store in San Jose. Besides the store, I would see him with tables in the local gunshows.
ReplyDeleteThat plug design is perhaps the worst thing about the 1911. There is no way to positively control it. It needs a socket of some sort in the face, so you can stick some kind of tool into it to give you a handle. A Phillips screwdriver or Allen wrench would work nicely. I'm talking a hole with some depth to it, not the head of a screw.
Anyway, eyepro plus a box or bag to restrain the flying part is best.
Jim: I have a similar wrench. Not strictly necessary, but it does help keep the plug from going suborbital. It does not appear that there is any reason for me to get a full length recoil guide rod.
ReplyDelete