tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2807403883562053852.post5144059310160583711..comments2024-03-27T08:40:31.785-06:00Comments on Clayton Cramer.: Next Step on the TelescopeClayton Cramerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03258083387204776812noreply@blogger.comBlogger4125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2807403883562053852.post-4039488203797640932013-05-11T14:14:33.269-06:002013-05-11T14:14:33.269-06:00Tailwind,
How much flame to you need to get them ...Tailwind,<br /><br />How much flame to you need to get them to 700-1000? Can a plain propane torch do the trick? How red does the steel need to get?Kirk Parkerhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/05921711310191924997noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2807403883562053852.post-62901377984609022342013-05-11T10:31:22.261-06:002013-05-11T10:31:22.261-06:00It may be that the direct sunlight means more heat...It may be that the direct sunlight means more heat to operate the chemical processes. But I notice that there are polymerization reactions that take place in response to UV light as well. http://www.tufts.edu/as/tampl/program99/finalprojects/mrp/UV_Curing.html Perhaps UV is accelerating the process?Clayton Cramerhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/03258083387204776812noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2807403883562053852.post-21126785137028362522013-05-10T22:30:17.857-06:002013-05-10T22:30:17.857-06:00You're making me nervous with the repeated use...You're making me nervous with the repeated use of 'put it in the sun to dry'. Polyester resin (like epoxy) does not need to <i>dry</i>, it needs to cure. The stuff I've worked with can be given a fairly wide range of the hardener (MEK in my specific case) based on the temparature and, to a lesser extent, the desired working time and curing rate. <br /><br />If you're putting it in the sun because you want to warm it up, so it will cure faster, ok; but otherwise all you're doing is causing the solvent in the resin to evaporate faster, without necessarily completing the polymerization reaction that will give the cured product its strength.Kirk Parkerhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/05921711310191924997noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2807403883562053852.post-16464961512209888702013-05-10T20:34:08.832-06:002013-05-10T20:34:08.832-06:00An alternative to painting the fasteners would be ...An alternative to painting the fasteners would be to blue them. You can use a commercial cold blue solution or heat blue. To heat blue, heat the fasteners to 700-1000F and quench in oil. Alternatively, you can dip the fasteners and burn off the oil. Lightweight oil like 3-in-1 or 20w motor oil mixed with linseed oil works fine. With small fasteners, it is a very quick process. Although it's called "bluing," the color is closer to black. The advantage over painting is that there is no thickness build-up and it won't chip or peel. Post-quench oiling helps prevent rusting. The oil quench method is practically free because it's likely that you have some motor oil around the house. If the fasteners are cad plated, you might have to burn that off first, or use metal etch.<br />I got this info from "Gunsmithing," by Roy F. Dunlap. I've tried it and liked the results.Anonymousnoreply@blogger.com